20 Days with GFX 50s
20 Days with GFX 50s
For my initial impressions click here, to download the example RAF files from my pictures click here.
I used almost all the features of the GFX 50s over the past 20 days. After a week of my first impressions, I took many more pictures. I tried night, day, portrait, scenery photos as well as studio. Many photographers wondering about this machine are, differences in different sensors and usage habits with different sensors. This curiosity is much more especially in people who have not used a medium format machine before. Those who have experienced the medium format in the past can predict what kind of result will be achieved.
The GFX 50s comes with a menu from other Fujifilm models. Simple to switch between menus and update settings. You can collect the most used menus in the title “My Menu”. So you do not go anywhere to change the parameters you use often. I have about 10 features added to this menu. But there is a problem like this; If you make a setting and want to try and watch it again, it’s not where the last time you left it, it’s back to the main menu. This is also tiring. I think you will get better with an update.
Upper LCD Display
This screen, which is not on the Fujifilm X-T1 and X-T2, works well, especially in night shots or indoors. When the machine is turned off, you can see the shooting variables, the number of photos you can take etc. It also shows your video settings when you go to the video menu. Though not so comprehensive, I would like a small upper display to be on the X-T2. I did not investigate the technology, but it reminded me of the e-ink technology in the e-book. Even in bright light it looks very comfortable.
Back LCD Display
I can not use a machine that does not have an LCD on it. For me it’s a must have. The GFX 50s also uses a flexible LCD display to open both vertically and horizontally. I have never used the vertical one. I do not even know when to use it. In vertical shots are said to work. I do not do vertical shooting in general, so I did not have a chance to use it. I witnessed the setting of the default brightness for some time during shooting, which made me mistake me. I solved this situation by doing -2 from the given brightness value. I think someone who gets a new machine should do this first. Most of my photos were so dark because of this. It is good LCD being touch. After shooting, looking at the photo with finger motion and checking the sharpness is both enjoyable and saves time. The touch AF point can also be selected. I tried, but it is not very useful in nature. On tripod steady shooting, it is much more functional. But if I were to still set the smallest AF point for precise shots, I would move with AF control. Touch AF is ideal for more voluminous objects. There is another feature that works well on the touchscreen LCD. Scale or histogram opens when you drag up or down on the screen. I think it’s a very well thought out shortcut. In fact, it is much better if shortcuts like double finger tapping, 3 finger tapping and similar functions can be added. For example, if you touch with two fingers and make a scrolling move, you can send that photo via Wi-Fi. Take great pictures with 3 finger movements ☺
A little more control buttons are on the machine body. There are more function assignment buttons. There are shortcut options for almost all your needs except video. The fact that the camera and the video shortcut on the Fujifilm X-T2 can not be assigned is a disadvantage for both photographers and video shooters like me. Every time I turn the dial to switch between video and photo, I lose position. When using the X-T1, I was able to get the video without changing the framing in the same settings as when I took the picture. Now I lose my framing and concentration somewhat. Can be reached through the drive on the video menu by two movement.
I saw the C setting on the ISO dial as different. When you bring it to C, you can translate the ISO from the front and rear dials, not from the top. This is a good thing I think. Because when you were looking at the viewfinder you could have adjust the shutter speed and aperture, but it was an absence not to do this for ISO. It’s good to be able to manipulate the shooting variables in seconds while looking at the viewfinder. To do this, you need to set the shutter speed to T mode. When we take the T mode, we can set a shooting time from 1/16000 to 60 minutes. There is 1/4000 Mechanical Shutter. Then the electronic shutter. Especially when you use an aperture diaphragm lense, 4000 shutter speed is very comfortable on the value. I used an electronic shutter several times while using a 63 mm lense. I saw the distortions I had not seen on the X-T1 before in some photographs. Soft patches are formed in the photo. This does not happen so often but it would be safe to shot back ups when using electronic shutter. Especially in the high shutter speeds on the Mountain Erciyes, that was cold that day, I experienced 1 lose every 10 shots. But in the following days I did not encounter the same mistake.
ES Sample to deformation 1/6400 Shutter f:2.8
There is also C mode on the diaphragm ring. In the same way, you can give control to the control unit. I do not think I will use this setting. Turning the diaphragm over the lens in tripod and stepped shooting can sometimes cause axis shift. I think I can use it in such situations.
What did I assign to the shortcut keys?
- Self-timer setting
- Exposure mode preview
- AF area setting
Especially a shortcut for exposure preview is useful for seeing what I shoot in the dark. You also need to close the exposure mode in order to be able to see the scene in flash photography in studio. I use other shortcut keys in the factory setting.
The AF-S, AF-C, and M settings are also easily accessible. Drive mode is not a dial, but a button. There are print modes inside. But there is no panaroma shooting mode. There are no CH and CL modes in the other x models for burst shooting. There’s only one serial shooting setting. It would be unnecessary to set such a setting because it already shot 3 frames per second.
A battery is used on the left side of the machine that can shoot 400-500 frames. I can take a day out in my shots. But you still need a spare battery. The battery is not charged internally via the machine. The X-T2 seems to have made up for this a major shortage for the travel photographers. I would like to have this similar feature in the GFX 50s. I generally do not prefer to use extra grid.
One of the issues I am obsessed with is card support and card support provided by the machines. Two cards supporting UHS-2 speed can be installed in this machine. I used Fujifilm’s 64Gb UHS-2 card. I did not experience any blockage in series. But when I put the UHS-1 card, the machine slows down after a few shots in series. If you are considering using this machine and shooting in series, you should definitely buy a UHS-2. If you want a branding recommendation, I would recommend the fastest Lexar 2000x card from Fujifilm. I have this card. But when the computer was inserted for a long time, it was deformed and deteriorated. I think I should get it again. If you are not thinking about shooting in series, then UHS-1, which writes around 60-90 mbps, will suffice.
Using in Studio
As I mentioned earlier, I’m doing studio shoots with long-lasting product and commercial content. The GFX is very small in size besides the other machines I use. This difference in size makes it a relatively big advantage for others on tripods or for handheld shooting. LCD screen size and touch zoom and shooting controls can be done without the need of a computer. You can also connect to a computer and shoot directly from the computer with tethering support. I have not tried it yet because there is not a long usb cable under my hand. It looks like it will be enjoyable to use over Lightroom. We use the broncolor flash system in the studio. I’ve used the flash trigger in this machine the same way I used the lights before. In short, I can say the GFX50s is the most ergonomic medium format camera available in the studio.
Shooting quality is more successful because of the new technology. I did not find watering I mean ‘moiré’, especially facing in close texture. I did not see it in the GFX when the other medium format machines started to show green and pink colors in the place where this drift was. I can also say that there is some advantage in giving details. I did not prefer to publish these comparisons here because of variables such as lens, distance and focal point used. But in the coming days these tests will be published on Dpreview.com. I am very curious as to the comparison between the new generation medium format and the past medium format.
Using in Nature
In the nature I have tested the use in two ways, with and without flash. In normal use, it is unnecessary to say once again, the advantages of being water and dust-resistant. I can say some things as shooting habits and ergonomics. Existing lenses do not have an anti-vibration system of 32-64 mm and 63 mm. I also thought that I would get clear squares with this machine because of my habit of using OIS lens. But I did not have OIS, so I had to use high shutter speeds. Or I had to take more discipline by breathing. I know that a 120 mm lens has OIS. But I did not try it because I do not have that lens yet. In short, you have to use it more carefully under the 1/125 instantaneous.
When the touch screen is active, the AF point slips to the corner when you accidentally touch your LCD screen with your hand. You need to bring it back to where you use it again. Touch screening can sometimes speed up your work, sometimes slow down, in some situations. The user has to set this setting according to his priorities. The machine fits comfortably together with the two lenses to an average shoulder bag with other apparatus. I used it like that. Even the wallet and other items were in the same bag. With 63 mm, the machine becomes much lighter and smaller. 63 mm corresponds to 50 mm in full square form. But it is not an angle I prefer because it reduces the atmosphere. I expect to experiment with the lens which is scheduled to go out this year and is equivalent to 35 mm in full frame. 32-64mm is a good quality and fast lens. The shortness of the zoom range increases the sharpness.
I used a double machine for a while. 50-140mm over the X-T2 and 32-64mm over the GFX. They were a great duo. But using two machines together, the person is being dragged into the confusion of concepts. With GFX, you choose a more careful AF point (I usually use a single point). I used zone mode with X-T2. If you take a wide angle shot with GFX and then shoot with another scene X-T2, the speed and clarity of the X-T2 will affect the human being. But when you come home and check the shots from the computer, this time you can not see the detail and resolution on X-T2 as it is in GFX, and you say why do not you have everything on one machine? So someone who has X-T2 and has not had medium format experience. He might ask ‘What can GFX give me?’ My answer is clear. It picks up some speed but gives a very high quality photo.The preference here is completely owned by the user. I am still confused within the use of nature. High speed? Quality? In other words, if you want to use FF while you are on the Aps-c sensor, it is the same to request the middle format while using FF. In both, there will be a similar jump.
For someone who uses their photos entirely in social media and does not care too much detail, the X-T2 is a very good choice. But the GFX will be a better choice for those who will sell their sketches at the same time and exhibit in large prints. There will be a lot of difference between the print quality and every detail will appear on the photo. In fact, the X-T2 and GFX comparison is not exactly like machine comparison. Here is the size of the sensor to be compared. The advantages and disadvantages will manifest themselves for each user.
Here’s what I’m talking about here.
I would like to emphasize that I only put the adjectives such as good and quality in the photographs in a technical sense. There is no point in posting a picture of an idea and emotion – after which you can give emotion – from which machine. But there is a fact as follows. Some machines may give the desired emotion better. For example, if you want to capture the calmness of speed, you must use a fast machine. Or if you want to isolate your subject with soft back bokehs, you will need a sensor that can give you this. It’s really a confusing tool GFX. Once you enlarge the photo from the computer and look it up, it creates a quality threshold that will never come out of your mind. Whatever you do, your mind is staying in that quality.
I can not say that I tried to use flash in the nature very detailed. But I did a few shots with the EF-X500 flashes. I will try again with more professional paraflashes. This requires softboxes, generator systems. I know that light companies are doing something for GFX. But I do not know how long it will reach the end user. Normally you can do flash photography with any brand of model on the outside. However, you can only shoot with the supporting models for HSS (Fuji’s fp), which means high shutter speed.
According to a medium formata it gives a speed on the expected. On the first impressions I shared a video about AF-C performance. It provides a fast AF even though it is using the contrast detection method. Normally, the machines are able to grasp in two ways. Contrast and phase detection. Contrast detection is more consistent than phase detection, although it is slower. Although phase detection is faster, contrast is not as consistent as detection. These two systems are used together in the latest machines. The GFX is only as sharp as the contrast detection method. It has a lot of sharpness points compared to medium format scales and has a crispness. You can also see the difference by comparing it with other intermediate formats.
The only point in selecting the AF area is a more stable result. A little further improvement is needed in the region selection. The machine can choose a different contrast area outside of your choice in the selected area. This undesirable possibility exists in systems with phase detection. It is good to be careful in the region selection. I especially recommend one spot, in intertwined tones and colors.
The machine offers a DR of 14 stops. The success of showing the tones of both, without sacrificing one of the dark and open spaces, is expressed as DR. What is practical in practice is obvious. In other words, the dark shadows should be able to see the details without falling down, the light gray shades without falling down. APS-C formats and most FF do not achieve this at the desired level.
The best place to see the Dynamic Range effect is Photoshop. If the dark areas are able to show details without blasting a few stops, or vice versa, DR can be said to be good. Obviously for the first time I shoot in the nature with a high DR machine. It was always a matter of curiosity. The photo interventions that I shoot require high DR. I am posing according to the most lightening place of the photo and opening the dark areas later. I could see the detail and the tone that I could not see until now. I encountered this machine after 4-5 stops for the sand blast I had encountered before opening two stops in advance. For bride and groom photographers, it is difficult to protect the detail of the bride and to show details of the bridesmaid. That’s where the DR works. DR is an advantage for me, I can make cinematic tones more comfortable. Each transition is very soft in these colors that you give me in these intermediate tones. It gives a rich transition result.
- Big sensor
- Detail ability
- Dynamic Range
- FF sized and weighted body
- Faster than the other medium formats
- AF-C performance
- Touch screen
- From corner to corner sharpened lenses
- Resistance body against water, dust and cold
- Double UHS-2 SD card support
- Soft bokeh
- Upper LCD screen
- Fleksible vısor that can remove from the machine
- Cheaper than the other medium formats
- No OIS in 32-64 mm ve 63 mm lenses
- No phase detection
- No functional video features, eve there could be
- Non-charging through machine
- Not enough number of lens variaty ( 3 more lenses are on the road in this year)
- Elektronic Shutter errors
- The price is above most full-frame machines (similar to Canon 1dx Mark 2 and Nikon D5)
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